"... When Prometheus was chained to the rocks of the Caucasus, set out his old enemy Dragon to destroy the hero. But it was told: not to be Prometheus at the mercy of Dragon. And was turned Dragon into the stone on the slopes of Kazbek and became Dragon Rocks..."
The Dragon Rocks form the horseshoe shaped ridge of rocks of
approximately a kilometer wide at 4700 – 4800m height on
the
east slope of Kazbek. It is the so-called Dragon's tail. The branch to the
north is the head of Dragon. The vertical walls of the horseshoe rocks change
approximately from 150 up to 200 meters and mostly end with the overhanging
rocky eaves. The breed of the rocks is volcanic, loose, sometimes it is a heap
of the huge "alive" blocks and the ground.
In 40s of the XX century the Georgian climber Shota Mikeladze with the partner tried to pass the tail of Dragon from the external side not dropping in the horseshoe. The attempt was terminated with Mikeladze’s tragically destruction. Afterwards the group of the Russian climbers passed this route and estimated it as the 4-th category of complexity.
There were no attempts to get in the horseshoe of Dragon and to pass its vertical walls. It was explained with the loose rocks and stone falling danger of volcanic breeds.
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The members of the
Club Mountain Traveler decided to attack the Dragon Rocks "frontally"
from the inside of the horseshoe. This idea appeared in 1995 - 1996 when the
first routes of the 6-th category of complexity were done. These were in the
rocky area Chaukhi and on famous Shkhara, the second mount in height in Europe.
Since 1994 and up today the fortnight winter camp at mount Kazbek is carried
out. It is hold on the basis of the high-altitude (3600m) meteorological
station and becomes traditional. The idea, that the winter frosts on Kazbek is
the key for the loose and dangerous rocks of Dragon was born right here. After
were the years of exploring and accumulation of the necessary experience and
equipment. The approaches were explored through the northern ridge of Kazbek,
through the glacier Abano (Bath) from the east and from the western ridge.
Dragon was trying us. The ways through the glacier not problematic the last
season, subsequently changed beyond recognition and became impassable. The safe
northern ridge has been fallen. Snow dust avalanches came down and ice fell in
the places where all was quiet during several years. One year the terrible
storm did not stop during two weeks.
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At last, in 2003 the
camp was dig out in snow at height 4200m on the western ridge of Kazbek. The
attack, which was ended successfully, began from here. 400 meters height
ice-snow slope (3-d category of complexity) began from the huge ice shoulder
and we came under the left part of the horseshoe - Dragon's tail. The exploring
was fulfilled by three climbers of the club: Vano Imnaishvili, Nika Lebanidze
and Zura Kutchava. Everything was ready. After the acclimatization ascension by
the route of the 3-d category of complexity, three participants started the
attack. For this time in the group were Levan Tatarashvili, George
Kakhabrishvili and Zura Kutchava. The traverse was began after the slope under
the Dragon rocks 80 - 100 meters to the right up to the entry in the horseshoe.
300 meters ropes were hang on the first day and the participants of the
ascension were in the centre of Dragon's horseshoe. 150 meters of the vertical
rocks in the left part of Dragon are not lighted up by the sun and are mostly
covered with the rocky eaves. The rocks in here are as blocks. The right part,
200 meters of vertical rocks, is lighted up by the sun till three o'clock in
the afternoon and 20 meters height ice seracs stand above. The ice dome of
Kazbek slips here and hangs above the rocks of Dragon. Just in that days when
the participants of the ascension were working on the route, the ice seracs
fell down 4-5 times above the right part and swept away all up to the glacier
Abano approximately at a depth one and half kilometer. Inside the horseshoe the
easiest way was planned through the left vertical rocks between two ridges of
the eaves. The large snow cutting in the rock strongly shorted the way and all
complexities were reduced to the 100 meter rocky walls. As it was expected the
climbing iron goes in the rocky cracks only for 2-3 centimeters, then it is the
ground. In this case the stoppers and the friends on the
safety points and the stations worked perfectly. Approximately 300-350 meters of
an ice-snow slope of the dome of Kazbek above the Dragon Rocks leads out to the
fore part field of the summit. After fastening the ropes on the rocks on the
fourth day the group passed all route for 5 hours from the shoulder of the
western ridge up to the summit. The descent to the meteorological station took
3 hours. During all four days of the ascension the weather was ideal – even an
air did not move in the horseshoe. Dragon accepted and let the climbers to
pass.
