Kazbek 2005.
Impression from the trip to
About the campaign
The trip passed within the International Camp
on Kazbek, organized by Mountaineering and Climbing Association of Georgia and
UIAA Youth Commission. About the Camp I learnt from Olia Nepodoba’s article
"Undeserved forgotten
Two my friends - Sveta (
Looking back, I realize,
that we were lucky almost in everything: the team, and the instructor and the
weather. It does not mean, that all went like clockwork, but all around rather
promoted, than interfered with realization of dream.
Thoroughfare before the beginning of
the route:
Thoroughfare up to Kazbeg. It would be convenient to take plane
up to
Sveta
and I made visas for 20 $ directly on the Georgian border, Lusia made it
beforehand in
The
trip and the crossing of three borders (Osetian, Russian and Georgian) took
about 4.5 hours. We recommend to take the scheduled
bus, since it passes out of turn. And in a taxi it is real even to stay the
night on the Russian border, since a lot of cargo and private transport
accumulates 
on the control.
Beginning. July 3
The settlement Kazbeg met us with a rain, which
whether drizzled or turned to a tropical downpour. In the same place we joined
with the Georgian part of group, which consisted of one girl - Kate and 22 guys
of different ages (basically students).
In the evening for acclimatization we walk up
to ancient church Sameba, build up rather high above the settlement. We spent
the night on the first floor of the hospitable owners’ house. In general it was
supposed to pass the night in the wood above the settlement, but the rain
prevented.
July 4
In the
morning weather pleased us with the bright sun and blue sky. The high-minded
guys released us from the duty to carry public equipment, i.e. we dragged only
personal. Even tent was not given to carry. Taking into account our sports
shape (its absence is more correct), it was in the
nick of time. The part of the load "was charged" to carry to the
horse and the donkey, rented in the settlement.
Beforehand I shall note, that during the travel
the knights behaved themselves extreme correctly. Communicated with enthusiasm,
but "not went too far".
Sveta turned love affair with a very nice guy.
So, her holiday turn out to be twice successful. He protected her, took care
etc. in every possible way. That, however, did not prevent her to jump down
from a roof of a Shelter under influence of mountain illness and to get black
eye. On the other hand it was no need of any more headlightJ.
On the first day we made a path and
spent the night at height of 3000 m. For the first time we got in a
thunder-storm in mountains. It unexpectedly happened at night. All started from
a gusty wind, and ended by a downpour and lightnings, which "strike"
the next summit. I imagined, that whether our tent roles downwards on gorge, or
how I hide in a mouse hole (as the mouse, certainly). Lucky rodent! More
shortly, I got fear for many years forward.
July 5
The next day we went on a glacier up to a
Shelter located on 3600. The Alpine meadows have been replaced by moren, red
stones, icefall and snow. We were going in two ropes. We were conducted by Zura
(instructor). Not urge on, went sincerely.
I had an impression, that this part
of
So Shelter, meteostation. It represents a powerful two-storeyed
stone building constructed in 30es of XXc, probably, with the strategic
purpose. Alas, it is not heated and practically is not lighted up. Light gets
from the generator and only for "the administration", and we were
contented with the sun and candles. The climate was most friendly. We cooked on
gas torches.
Generally to walk was hard enough, got tired, the only desire was to
sleep. But as usually in high mountains, never sleep out. The sensation that
you can not fell asleep neither in afternoon nor at night, never leaves. And so
the tiredness does not dispose to dialogue. It turns out, that when you have an
opportunity, you try to sleep, but only loose time.
July 6
On the next day the part of our guys returned
to the previous place to take products and equipment we have left. And the
small group led by the instructor Giorgi (including us), went off on the ice
trainings. It was a wonderful sunny day. We visited the highest mountainous
church located on 4000m. The basic purpose, certainly, was acclimatization and
"ice" training. The sights on majestic tops was opened everywhere.
The snow fell down from the far rocks breaking the silence.
The guys with load returned for the dinner
time, came up later arrived three guys. It was planned to rise up to the
starting camp for tomorrow, which has to be set on a glacier at a bottom of
summit at height about 4300m. The evening was dedicated to study the Georgian
language. It is necessary to note, that all spoke Georgian among themselves. In
due course, when we have learnt some words, began to understand something. The
Georgian language is rather complicated for reproduction, but there are no
genders.
July 7
The next morning was wonderful. The
gorge was filled with a fog, the mountains sparkled in
rays of dawn. Everything around breathed with greatness and calmness. Then I
took my favorite photo.
For this time our rope was conducted not by
Zura. The rhythm was not mine, I was awfully tired, began to gasp. The tears
flew down and have been accumulated in the mask as a lake, which I safely
poured out while a short stop. I went only for feeling of pride. When in 6
hours the necessary place was reached, the high mountain become apparent. The
sensation of obnubilation, blindness, stupefied etc. And in surprising, the
guys dug trenches for tents very 
actively. And how do the people gain
strength?! Within the struggle with mountain illness I began hobble with dull
attempt to help the builders and with weak hope to come to my senses. Strange
as it may seem but activeness helped. Misha and I even sculpted a snow men by the end of building. We made the Georgian
profile. The eyes were made of smoked sausage and an ice axe was given in its
"hand". All our photos show this handsome guy. I write about Misha
and become very sad. In a month he was lost in mountains of Svaneti ….
But not for a while yet everyone was alive, and
who was not sick even was happy. We tread out a path from the camp to the
toilet. To remove harness and leave the tents (except a small path up to the
toilet) was not allowed because of a danger to fail in a crack. The girls laid down in a mountain faint in the tent and I kept the
reportage shooting. The storm of summit was assigned on the next morning.
July 8
The dawn was very picturesque, the colours
varied constantly. The group was divided into three ropes.
Weather spoiled quickly. The wind blew, some times we appeared in a cloud. Zura hurried us.
Little by little the firm ice crust began to fail. We buried in the snow more
and more up to the knee or to the waist. And in add an unloaded air… neither up
to this time and nor after nothing was so painful for me than this ascent
(wanted to write "rise", but corrected). When we 
reached the platform before the last
rush, I already was in a half responsible condition. Simply was sitting and
crying of tiredness. What a nice thing is a mask allowing to keep appearance of
the face when it is not already there. 40 minutes were
left up to the summit steeply upwards. A strange manner to measure distances in
minutes. "Why it is impossible to stay these minutes on one place and thus
to appear on the top" - this idea forced out all others from my blear
mind. Weather continued to spoil, Zura hurried us, there
was no time to sit. The guys started "to match" for an ascention. I
had no strength at all. But is it possible to postpone? When shall I have
another chance to stand at the top of Kazbek?.. I was
fastened in the middle. Lusia reasonably stayed. Having made some steps I
understood that I can not walk, but …
Further all looked about this way: one guy
walked in front of me, another beside me. I used to stop in some steps, sit
down and whine, that I am not able any more, the guys tried to persuade, to
cheer up. We dragged along this way. And no reproaches at me! Truly, their
nobleness and magnanimity was endless. So without any strength, feelings and
all the rest I reached the summit. I even could not stand. Nothing of the kind
of celebration of victory… As it was cloudy it was not possible to see Elbrus. And was not up to it.
Alas, nobody canceled the way back. It is
strange regularity that lagging behind rests less, and they get tired the most!
Not having a sit enough, we walked downwards. The tiredness was improbable and
quickly transformed into gloominess. Hardly moving the legs, I painfully
searched for the guilty in my sufferings. The role of torturer fitted most of all the instructor Zura. But certainly guilty is that
person, who could not find time for training. It was not easy to reap fruits of
an own disorganization… I walked and thought (like even spoken), that it is my
last mountain 
trip (and resolute) and was
perplexed why the people are dying for going in the mountains. And really what for? The question remains open.
Reaching up the camp by a miracle Lusia and I
(Sveta left earlier) were unpleasantly puzzled with news we have only 20
minutes to rest. Afterwards it is necessary to go down even to the
meteostation. The dissatisfied expression on my face
(it is more correct on its part not closed by mask) had no effect. The German
group has approached the camp, they were happy that were able to use our
trenches for tents.
In half an hour we again dragged downwards.
There was a daytime, the sun has turned the rigid ice crust into slush. We
still flunked, stumbled etc. Long or short, but all there comes to the end. It
makes happy that ends not only pleasure but grief also. And the Shelter is seen
from far… Giorgi stands and smiles who stayed because of the mountain illness…
And he is such a native… And the sun shines and the mountains are the same way
splendid…
This evening I have tried Chacha. It smells
grapes and notably raises quality of life (50 gr. in a doze). Little by little
the feeling of satisfaction admixed with tiredness.
This night we, at last, slept enough!
July 9
After breakfast and collective photo against
the background of meteostation, we already ran downwards to Kazbeg. On our way
we met three Czechs, who everything had ahead. How lucky some are!
On the way I was gathering Kazbek's red stones
in order to save them in memory about "the celebration of spirit above
body". Of course it was sad, that the camp comes to the end and little by
little passes to the category of memoirs. The feeling of sharp gratitude to
Zura and guys, who brought me to the summit, grew stronger.
That day we stood under hot shower in dear
hotel in the centre of
The end
To the
positive parties it is possible to attribute:
1. High
qualification of the chief.
2. Availability
of a route even for the physically unprepared people (as we, for example).
3. Good
discipline in the group.
4. The
mostly friendly climate.
5. High
quality of public equipment.
6. Rather
small price. From the beginning up to the end of the camp we had not pay extra.
To the weak part of a campaign, perhaps, is the
food. Certainly, nobody starved. The products were enough, even more than it is
necessary. But assortment was small. And bred it was necessary to replace by
crackers. I would like to take some more chocolate and dried fruits.
Conclusions.
1.
The route is accessible even to the practically not prepared tourists with good
health.
2.
To carry out an ascention on Kazbek within the International camp it is
convenient, since many organizational moments (residing, food, public equipment
etc.) are relieved.
3.
The spiteful attitude of the Georgian population to the Russians is a myth
imposed by mass media. All just is quite the contrary.
4. The
safety of staying in
5.
No problems with the frontier guards and representatives of officials neither
in mountains nor in cities.
6. The
visa is made very simply: directly on border without invitation.
To all
who wish to visit
Maria/ e-mail: MLazarenko@mail.ru